Have you dreamed of driving the coast of Ireland? Specifically, the 1,500 miles of coastline called the Wild Atlantic Way? The kind of drive where the sun is in your face and wind is in your hair? It called to me and I knew that was exactly what my wanderlust heart needed during my time on the Emerald Isle.
Even though I was not prepared for driving on “the wrong side of the road,” my travel bug won out in the end. I can say with 100% certainty, not being hindered by tour time tables and getting to go at my own pace, made a road trip the ideal type of travel for me. If you’re like me, I spent hours researching the Wild Atlantic Way – where I wanted to go, best driving routes, where to stay, etc. This is the route I chose for the short time I was able to drive this beautiful part of the country, along with my own bits of advice and things I learned on the way. If you’d also like a complete list of where I stayed along the way, make sure to check out my Northern Ireland and Republic of Ireland pages for my recommendations and what you need to know for visiting both countries.
Where to Start?
The ultimate question! The Wild Atlantic Way spans the entire Irish west coast. So where do you start? Do you start at the top, bottom, a big city? I found it helpful to rent my car in a big city and then begin my trip. Depending on your travel plans, this could mean Dublin or Shannon if you’re arriving in the Republic of Ireland or Belfast in Northern Ireland. Beginning in a big city allowed for a lot more options when it came to renting a car. Smaller is better when travelling and that logic saved me on more than one occasion throughout this trip. Keep in mind the roads are tiny in some places!
Although I was able to spend two full weeks in both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, I road-tripped the coastline for only one. Bear in my mind, I did not get to see all of the Wild Atlantic Way and it was fast-paced due to my time constraints. However, the parts I did see were breathtaking. The second week of my trip was spent with my best friend, exploring and celebrating both my birthday and St. Patrick’s Day!
The Causeway Coast
In thinking where to start, I decided it would be easiest to start at the top and work my around and down the westside of the country. But, this is only because I was meeting my friend in Dublin the next week. After flying into Belfast, I drove north to start my journey. And boy was I in for a treat! The weather was beautiful, the sun shining – very unlike what I expected. Typically, the weather is overcast and rainy, but I was in luck having sunshine the majority of the trip!
The first stop, Carrickfergus Castle. Located about 20 minutes outside of Belfast, this castle is worth a visit. It has stood for more than 800 years and now is home to historical pieces from the 17th and 19th century.
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and Giant’s Causeway
From there, continue heading northward to Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. This famous rope bridge was first installed in 1755 so that salmon fisherman could get over to the island, Carrick-a-Rede. The bridge was not open to walk across when I visited, but the views surrounding it were worth the visit regardless.
A short 15 minute drive from the Rope Bridge is the Giant’s Causeway. Legends say the columns that make up this area, were built by Giants. But in actuality, an ancient volcanic fissure eruption created the 40,000 interlocking columns made of basalt. Make sure to bring your walking shoes, though! The trip from your car to the columns is not a short one and the trip back is uphill.
Dunluce Castle, Mussenden Temple and the Dark Hedges
The last two stops for the day on the Causeway Coastal route were Dunluce Castle and Mussenden Temple. Less than 10 minutes from the Giant’s Causeway, this castle was one of my favorites from the trip. Not only was it the most picturesque, their displays help to depict the incredible history of the castle. When you’ve finished taken your fill of the view, hop back in your car to head to Mussenden Temple. Perched high on a cliff top, the Temple offers spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean, Downhill Strand towards County Donegal and Portrush. It was the perfect way to end the day!
When it came to deciding on where to stay on the North Coast, Airbnb had the most options. I found a lovely townhouse to spend the night in located in Portrush. Before leaving the area though, I had one more stop to make – to see the Dark Hedges. They are a beautiful road filled with beech trees that were planted in the 18th century. The trees became famous because they were used as a filming location for Game of Thrones and were the last stop for me in the North Coast.
Malin Head
The most northern point on the Irish mainland was my next stop – Malin Head. The drive, of course, was filled with the most picturesque views and the cutest Irish towns. Seriously, it felt like every time I turned a corner, I was entering a new one. The start (or end, depending on your perspective) of the Wild Atlantic Way, Malin Head is renowned for its epic coastal scenery. There’s a watch house (from Napoleon’s era) still standing at the top of the hill and hiking trails along the coast. It was also the filming location for another major film, Star Wars: The Last Jedi!
Londonderry
When I was ready to hit the road again, I drove straight to Londonderry or Derry to the locals. It’s the second largest city in Northern Ireland and many of you may remember hearing the name. This walled city was the scene of Bloody Sunday in the 1970’s; a massacre where 13 protestors were killed and 17 wounded during a protest march. The murals located all over the city depict its famous history and it was a perfect place for me to rest my head along my journey.
Beltany Stone Circle
Up until this point, I had been traveling between the two countries. Now that I was leaving Londonderry, I was going to remain in the Republic of Ireland. This meant a couple of things: first, I was driving in kilometers per hour (kph), instead of miles per hour as they do in the North. Thankfully, my car showed the mileage in both (most rental cars do). Secondly, the signs are different. In the North, they are all written in English only, while in the Republic, they are written in both English and Gaelic.
I made only one stop on my way to the Slieve League – to see the Beltany Stone Circle. Ever since watching Outlander and visiting Scotland, I’m obsessed with seeing stone circles. Located in County Donegal, it has been standing since the Bronze Age (1400-800 BC). It is made up 64 large stones, but may have originally been 80 stones. There was definitely an eeriness to this one. Most likely brought forth by the howling wind and the fact that I was alone!
Slieve League
As a tall mountain situated on the Atlantic Ocean, the Slieve League is both majestic and terrifying. After arriving at the visitor center, I drove directly to the viewing platform. You can hike it, but I chose to drive as the weather was not great. Be mindful, if you decide to hike or drive, for the sheep that reside in this area.
Despite being a bit dreary and dark, I enjoyed having the ocean views to myself, without tons of tourists. However, the wind was so strong, I was afraid to stand too close to the edge for fear the wind would knock something out of my hand and it would fall down the steep cliffs. Even though, I did not get a chance to hike Pilgram’s Path due to the wind, I was still treated to magnificent ocean and landscape views.
Sligo
Words cannot express the beauty I saw driving the Wild Atlantic Way from County Donegal to County Sligo. Honestly, everywhere I drove was filled with the most stunning scenery. In planning my road trip, I made certain that I would never drive more than a couple of hours a day. One, because I didn’t want to be too tired to drive each day and two, the roads are not traditional highways a lot of time. I knew that if I planned too many stops in one day, I wouldn’t make it to see all of them.
Choosing to stay in the town of Sligo was simple. It was the largest town before the next two points of interests for me. Sitting on the Garavogue River, this charming town was home to the famous poet W.B. Yeats. I enjoyed walking along and exploring its cobbled streets. I loved the map that was displayed in the visitor center of things to see and do. It was how I discovered the The Hyde Bridge Gallery, Sligo Abbey and first learned about Yeats. The locals are also super friendly and recommended I try Hooked for dinner that night. It was SO good! Definitely a 10/10 rating!
Downpatrick Head
Visiting Downpatrick Head was purely because of Instagram. I saw photos of this structure and knew it was a stop for me. Getting to it was an adventure though. After exiting the “main road,” I drove along through what appeared to be a country neighborhood. Truly, I thought Google had failed me. I should have known that I would end of up in the middle of nowhere. It wasn’t until I saw started to see the ocean ahead of me, I knew I had to be getting close.
Once I parked in the car park (all by lonesome again), I began the hike up. It was another very windy day and I made sure I stayed within the designated cliff markers that showed where it was safe to stand. This sea stack, as it is called, once belonged to the mainland. Interestingly enough, a storm in 1393 broke off part of the headland and created this new “island.” Today, there are still traces of walls and forts, as well as a World War II look-out post. There’s really nothing else up here, unfortunately. For me though, experiencing the Atlantic Ocean churning the water below and marveling at all that nature can do, this stop was completely worth it. I understand now why this route is called the Wild Atlantic Way.
Connemara
After dragging my wind blown self back to the car, I began my journey to Connemara National Park. Imagine driving through scenic mountains, woods, grasslands and lakes and that is what it is like in Connemara. Open year round and free to enter the grounds, the park encompasses Twelve Bens Mountain Range. The best part is that it is a quick hour drive from Galway City, meaning that you can visit here on a day trip if you’ve made Galway your home base.
Also nestled inside the park, is Kylemore Abbey and the Victorian Walled Garden. This must see Benedictine monastery was founded in the 1920s on the grounds of the Kylemore Castle for their nuns who fled World War I Belgium. It is absolutely stunning on the outside and my favorite abbey I visited! I will also never forget this one because as I was driving up to it, I was so enthralled by how beautiful it looked, that I took a corner too short and scraped my car against a tree. I was never so thankful to have full insurance coverage because that tree did some major damage!
Galway
The city of Galway is located right along the Wild Atlantic Way and up until this point, the biggest city I stayed in since arriving in the Republic of Ireland. I did not spend enough time here! From Eyre Square to Galway Cathedral to its Latin Quarter, I fell in love with yet another Irish city. I felt like I walked all over it and probably still didn’t see all there was to see. The best part of Galway is its proximity to so much, not just Connemara. You’ve got the Aran Islands a short ferry ride away, the Clonmacnoise Monastery not too far out of the city and of course, the Cliffs of Moher. The city itself has charming pubs, local markets and you guessed it, amazing coastal walks.
Cliffs of Moher
I think it’s safe to say that the Cliffs of Moher are the most famous tourist stop along the Wild Atlantic Way. I actually had no idea I had been pronouncing “Moher” incorrectly until hearing a local pronouncing it. Sounding it out, it’s written as maa·hr. Now, when you visit, you’ll be able to say it like a local!
If you don’t know, the Cliffs of Moher are exactly that. Vertical cliffs that have a very abrupt ending that lead straight down into crashing waves below. I was lucky to visit them on a clear day and could see for miles. There are are guided tours and audio guides through their app where you’ll learn about the history and biodiversity of the Cliffs of Moher. There is also bird watching, shopping and two Coastal Walks. The first one connects the villages of Liscannor and Doolin and is not for the faint of heart. It’s a total of 20 km long (about 12.5 miles). The second is the South Coastal Walk and it is only 5.6 km or 3.5 miles. However, at some parts, you are walking so close to the edge, while also having to walk around those coming from the opposite direction, it can be scary!
Pro tip: If you decide to take the South Coastal Walk, make sure to look behind you occasionally. Not only can you see the progress you’ve made, but the views are equally as stunning!
Nothing says rugged and wild as the Wild Atlantic Way does. I hope you are as inspired as I was to visit not only these two beautiful countries but to also take in their breathtaking, natural scenery.
